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About Portland observer. (Portland, Or.) 1970-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 4, 2004)
August 4, 2004 5 ^ ÏJortlanb (Dhserner This tempting side dish, offered by Weight Watchers, is tasty and low calorie. Coating potatoes in Dijon mustard and a small amount o f olive oil helps make them crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. SYLVIA'S CORNER Healthy Spuds Dijon-roasted new potatoes Page AS PHOTO BY M ark W ashinion / T he P ortland O bserver Ingredients • • • • • • • • POINTS® value: 3 Servings: 4 P re p a ra tio n Time: 10 min Cooking Time: 30 min Level of D ifficulty: Easy 1 tsp olive oil 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard 1/4 tsp dried thyme 1/2 tsp table salt 1/4 tsp black pepper 3/4 tsp paprika 1 1/2 pound potato(es), new, quartered 1 Tbsp peppercorn Instructions Coat a 9 X 13-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Heat oven to 425°F. Whisk together oil, mustard, paprika, thyme, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add potatoes and stir until they are coated. Transfer potatoes to the baking dish and roast 15 minutes. Stir and roast another 15 minutes. Advertise with diversity in 11,1 (¡Miscruer Call 503-288-0033 or email: ads@portlandobserver.eom e lassi fieds@port1andobserver.com A Delight for southern palates by L onnie H erron Seeing as my roots are from Baton, Louisiana and Memphis, Tennessee and being the owner or chef of eight southern cuisine res taurants over the years, my expec tations of southern foods in Port land was not very high, to say the least. I quickly set out to prove my expectations wrong. I found a newspaper and began searching for restaurants that had any remote possibilities of serving any form of southern food. In line with my expectations, 1 didn’t find what I was looking for until I finally stumbled across Sylvia’s Comer in northeast Portland on 13th Av enue and Dekum. I wanted a plate hot of southern soul food in the worst way. Just give me some ribs, collard greens, potatoes salad and peach cobbler and I’d be satisfied. I would have cooked the meal myself, but I was just too lazy. When I stepped inside, the dark ambiance left much to be desired, but I was still determined to sit down and order a meal. 1 waited to be seated while looking at the plates coming from the kitchen, The food looked very good and the greens were served in a sepa rate dish altogether, so I said to m yself, “ U m m ...th is may be alright.” As I sat waiting to be served I tried peeking in the service win dow, which was in plain sight of seated the customers. The first thing I noticed was how clean the kitchen was; even the floor. I’ve worked and been in many kitchens in my time, but I can venture to say this was one of the cleanest kitchens that I’ve ever seen. Next, I noticed the rather hefty three hundred pound chef, who I later came to know as Ray, a son of Sylvia. Lewis, Sylvia’s other son, served as a waiter. Ray was frying chicken wings and homemade French fries. I could tell they were homemade because Lewis was sitting at a sink with a 50- pound bag of potatoes cutting each one by hand. I looked a little further and saw a lady who I found out later was Sylvia, making what appeared to be peach cobbler. She looked up over her glasses and saw me watching her. I tried to pretend that 1 was lost or looking for the restroom, but I think she knew that I was really just checking out the place. I ordered ribs, greens, macaroni and cheese and a piece of peach cobbler for desert. I also decided to take an order of catfish and home made French fries for a little mid night snack. When my food finally arrived, the presentation was pleas ing and I could see steam still rising off of my cornbread. My mac and cheese and ribs were not swimming i / went for the ribs first. As I picked up the bone, the meat almost fell off. | in collard greens juice either (which in some circles is known as pot liquor.) I went for the ribs first. As I picked up the bone, the meat almost fell off. The sauce was to die for. I found out later that it was Sylvia’s own homemade recipe for her bar becue sauce that makes my mouth water just thinking about it. The cornbread was excellent. The maca- roni and cheese was made with real cheese, not that cheese whiz crap. And the greens were just like the ones big mamma used to make back at home when I was a boy. When it came to the peach cob bler, 1 know the staff thought I was crazy when 1 told them they were hiding my mother in their kitchen. Syl viareassured me that my mamma wasn’t in the kitchen, but she in fact made cobbler and everything else that came out of her kitchen. Since my first visit to Sylvia’s I’ve become a big fan. Because I’m such a loyal customer and a firm believer that this is the restaurant to visit for anybody who is hungry for some real, down south, home cooking, I want to let you in on a little secret. Sylvia has been hard at work redesigning and beautifying her restaurant. She is planning a grand opening on Aug. 14 and I personally want you to come in and get a taste of what I ’ m talking about. Prices are reasonable, the food is incomparable and every thing that is served is homemade. You can find Sylvia’s at 1301 N.E. Dekum or you can place an orderby calling, 503-289-8195.